“Fort Belvoir, Va. Sept. 1942. Issuing shoes to George Camblair at the clothing warehouse at camp”
Based off of Combat Lessons, Rank and File In Combat: What They’re Doing, How They Do It series from World War II, this series will offer guides for reenactors for fairly common problems. The topics are drawn from questions that we have received, mostly from new reenactors, over the years. This one will cover how one should go about getting their feet properly measured so they can have well-fitting shoes.
During World War II the US Army was keenly aware of the importance of properly fitted footwear in regards to the health and comfort of its soldiers and because of this they Army stocked over 90 different sizes of their service shoe and would special order sizes for soldiers as needed. In order to facilitate the issuing of well-fitted shoes the Army established a detailed shoe fitting regime that utilized special machinery, well-trained soldiers of the Quartermaster Corps, and personal checks by commissioned officers.Technical Manual (TM) 10-228: Fitting of Shoes and Socks dated February 15, 1946, states the following in regards to a correctly fitted shoe:
“The correctly fitted shoe holds the foot securely but not too firmly. It allows sufficient room in all of its dimensions for each component of the foot to function normally and with complete freedom from discomfort. It does not interfere with the proper position and functional spread of the weight-bearing portion of the foot, since there is no congestion at any point, and no strain or pressure which will cause distress or foot injury. In a correctly fitted shoe, there is no slipping at the heel and no backward pressure which prevents the normal gripping of the toes or tends to weaken the bones of the arch. For a foot to function as it should, the shoes worn must comply with the basic principles of proper shoe fitting. To violate materially any of these essentials is to invite foot trouble.”
This is as true for soldiers in 1944 as it is for reenactors today. We will be using a mixture of wartime Army Manuals and Regulations in order to best illustrate and explain the best way for you to find your proper shoe size for World War II era US Army Boots and Shoes at home. Those Regulations and Manuals are:
-Army Regulations (AR) 850-125 Miscellaneous: Foot Measuring and Shoe Fitting dated July 6, 1942
-AR 850-125 Miscellaneous: Foot Measuring and Fitting of Shoes and Socks dated June 9, 1943
-TM 10-228: Fitting of Shoes and Socks dated February 15, 1946.
As such we will be using the standard men’s Brannock Device. A special “Brannock double unit foot-measuring machine” first started being issued for use at reception centers at the start of the war. It differed from the standard men’s Brannock Device principally in that it was double footed and had a toe slider. Because of the rarity and expense of all World War II US Army foot measuring machines, we will be substituting the standard men’s Brannock Device do to its availability and being inexpensive while still being functionally the same of the US Army issue version.
What You Will Need:
-A Men’s Brannock Device
-Light Wool Socks
-A Operator
-A Chair or Seat, preferably one with a solid surface to place the Branncok Device against.
Step 1
-Place the Brannock Device in front of the foot measuring chair. To help prevent the machine from sliding out of position during the foot-measuring operations one can nail a wooden strip that approximately ½-inch-wide and 5/16-inch-thick in front of and to the rear of the device.
Step 2
-Push the ball-joint indicator to the heel end of the ball-joint indicator slot. Slide the width bar as far to the outside as it can go.
Step 3
-With one’s shoes removed and wearing light wool socks sit in the chair. The Brannock Device should be directly below your knee so that the leg and the foot form an approximate right angle. In this position the leg and foot are free and the heels may be easily and properly positioned in the Brannock Device.
Step 4
-The operator with his hands over the instep, positions in the machine the stockinged feet of the person. The heel must be completely back into the heel cup and the foot so positioned on the machine that the inner edge of the foot almost cover the slot through which the ball-joint indicator slide.
Step 5
-Locate the ball-joint of the foot with your thumb and slide the ball-joint indicator forward with the other hand. Fit the inner curved surface of the ball-joint indicator around the ball-joint of the foot so that the two high ribs of the ball-joint indicator contact the thumb of the machine operator and the low middle rib of the ball-joint indicator touches the ball-joint bone of the foot being measured. Read and record the size indicated on the heel-to-ball scale by the pointer on the ball-joint indicator. The heel-to-ball or arch length size of each foot is now determined.
Step 6
-To determine the heel-to-toe length size of each foot press down on the toes of both feet with the hands so the toes lie flat against the base of the machine while the person is seated. The socks must drawn tightly back over the toes. Look straight down over the end of the toes of the foot and read and record the size on the toe length size scale to which the longest toe of the foot extends.
Step 7
-Hold the feet of the person firmly against the back of the heel cup with the hand around the ankle and the fingers around the back of the heel cup, and have the person stand in the machine.
Step 8
-Before adjusting the width bars make sure the heel is firmly back against the heel cup and the ball joint snugly fitted into and against the inner, curved, portion of the ball-joint indicator.
Step 9
-Push the width indicator bar against the side of the foot without squeezing the foot. Release the hand. Press down on the toes of the foot with the hands so the toes lie flat against the base of the machine. Release the hands.
Step 10
-Select the same size number on the width bar as the length size just determined. Follow down the line on the width bar representing this size, and select the width on the width scale nearest this line. If this line registers halfway between two widths select the wider. Read and record that size.
Step 11
-Repeat Step 3-10 with the other foot.
Step 12
-The heel-to-ball or arch length size of each foot is now determined.
(a) If both feet measure the same size, select that size as the heel-to-ball or arch length size of both feet. Example: One foot 7, other foot 7, select 7.
(b) If one foot measures one-half size longer, select the longer size as the heel-to-ball or arch length size of both feet. Example: One foot 6 ½, other foot 7, select 7.
(c) If one foot measures one full size longer, select the size halfway between the two as the heel-to-ball or arch length size of both feet. Example: One foot 6 ½, other foot 7 ½, select 7.
(d) The heel-to-ball or arch length size of both feet is now selected.
(e) If the feet vary to a greater extreme in heel-to-ball or arch length size, a special measurement shoe may be required.
"Fort Belvoir, Va. Sept 1942. All of George Camblair's sizes are recorded at the clothing warehouse."
Step 13
-The heel-to-toe length size of each foot in now determined.
(a) If both feet measure the same size, select that size as the heel-to-toe length size of both feet. Example: One foot 7, other foot 7, select 7.
(b) If one foot measures one-half size longer, select the longer size as the heel-to-toe length size of both feet. Example: One foot 6 ½, other foot 7, select 7.
(c) If one foot measures one full size longer, select the size halfway between the two as the heel-to-toe length size of both feet. Example: One foot 6 ½, other foot 7 ½, select 7.
(d) The heel-to-toe length size of both feet is now selected.
(e) If the feet vary to a greater extreme in heel-to-toe length size, a special measurement shoe may be required.
"Fort Belvoir, Va. Sept 1942. A corporal seeing that George Camblair's shoes are a proper fit at the clothing warehouse."
Step 14
-To determine the correct length of shoe size for initial trial fitting, compare the heel-to-ball or arch length size with the heel to toe length size, and determine the proper shoe size in the following manner:
(a) If the toe length and arch length are the same size, select that size as the shoe size. Example: Toe length 9, arch length 9, shoe size 9.
(b) If the toe length is longer than the arch length, select the toe length size as the shoe size. Example: Toe length 9 ½, arch length 9, shoe size 9 ½. Toe length 10, arch length 9, shoe size 10.
(c) If the arch length is longer than the toe length by ½ size or more, the shoe size will be ½ size longer than the heel-to-toe size. Example: Arch length 9, toe length 8 ½, shoe size 9; arch length 9 ½, toe length 8 ½, shoe size 9; arch length 10, toe length 8 ½, shoe size 9.
"Fort Belvoir, Va. Sept 1942. Issuing shoes to George Camblair at the clothing warehouse at camp."
Step 15
The width of each foot is now determined.
(a) If both feet register the same width, select a shoe of that width for initial try-on fitting. Example: One foot 8C, other foot 8C, select 8C shoe.
(b) If one foot registers one full width wider, select a shoe of the wider width for initial try-on fitting. Example: One foot 8B, other foot 8C, select 8C shoe.
(c) If one foot registers two width wider, select a shoe in width halfway between the two extremes for initial try-on fitting. Example: One foot 8B, other foot 8D, select 8C shoe.
(d) The width size of both feet is now selected.
(e) If the feet vary to a greater extreme width, a special measurement shoe may be required.
"Fort Belvoir, Va. Sept 1942. Issuing shoes to George Camblair at the clothing warehouse at camp."
Step 16
-Choose/Order a shoe based on the size that were determined with steps 14 & 15.
Step 17
-Shoe fitting checks.
(a) Shoe fitting checks will always be made while the person is wearing both shoes in a standing position with his weight evenly distributed on both feet. In these fitting checks both shoes will be laced through not less than the five lower eyelets. In these shoe fittings one should be wearing light wool socks.
(b) The following four fitting tests of both shoes will be made in shoe-fitting checks to insure that properly fitted shoes are being worn:
(1) Snug fit under the arch.
(2) Proper position of the ball-joint.
(3) Sufficient width across the ball.
(4) Enough length at the toe.
Step 18
-Snug fit under the arch is determined by grasping both shoes over the instep with the thumbs on the outer side and the fingers pressing firmly against the under arch close to the outer sole on the inner side of the shoes. The leather should lie snugly against the under arch and be free from excessive wrinkles and fullness.
Illustration from TM 10-228 "Fitting of Shoes and Socks", February 15 1946
Step 19
-The proper position of the ball joint is determined by locating the ball-joint with the thumb of each hand. The ball-joint shoe lie in the area approximately opposite the widest portion of the shoe just ahead of the curvature of the outer sole into the shank under the arch.
Illustration from TM 10-228 "Fitting of Shoes and Socks", February 15 1946
Step 20
-Sufficient width across the ball is determined by pressing both thumbs against the lower inner and outer portions of the vamp and working each thumb slowly toward the center until the thumbs approximately meet. The shoe should be filled by the foot without apparent tightness or excessive fullness. Each shoe must be tested separately for width.
Illustration from TM 10-228 "Fitting of Shoes and Socks", February 15 1946
Step 21
-To determine if there is enough toe length press down on each shoe with both thumbs at the extreme toe end of the shoe. There should then be a clearance or space of about ½ inch between the end of the longest toe and the end of the shoe. Each shoe must be tested separately for length.
Illustration from TM 10-228 "Fitting of Shoes and Socks", February 15 1946
Step 22
-Repeat steps 16-21 until a properly fitting shoe has been selected.
Illustration from AR 850-125 "Miscellaneous: Foot Measuring and Fitting of Shoes and Socks" dated June 9, 1943
Step 23
-Socks were not sized the same as shoes and instead were on their own scale. Check your sock size using your shoe size using the chart illustrated here. To check the fit of socks:
(a) The sock-fitting check will always be made while the person is wearing both socks in a standing position with his weight evenly distributed on both feet.
(b) The sock should be filled by the foot without apparent tightness or excessive fullness. There should be an excess length clearance at the toe of about 3/8 inch to allow for shrinkage.
Chart from AR 850-125 "Miscellaneous: Fitting of Shoes and Socks" dated December 31, 1940
Step 24
-Breaking in shoes:
New shoes should be thoroughly broken in and worn not less than 3 days before beginning a march. Shoes used for active service and marching should have dubbin rubbed into the leather on the outside of the shoe to prevent hardening and cracking and to provide a water-resistant finish. If in an emergency shoes must be broken in quickly, the suggested procedure is that the person wear his new shoes and stand in about 2 ½ inches of water for approximately 5 minutes or until the leather is thoroughly pliable and moist, then walk on a level surface for about 1 hour while the shoes dry on his feet.
Final
-The shoes & socks are now well fitted and the shoes are properly broken in. Now it is time to wear and enjoy them in all of their comfort.